El camino de costa rica : a pack trip into the heart of green
“A scene like you dream about is before me…
I am beholding Mother Nature’s frilly green dress. Oh, I can’t even stomach it all! The bellies of my eyes are filled with this scene.
The glory! The soaring! The incredibilia!”
-written in my journal, in Costa Rica, 2025
Hello! You are here because your heart is a wild beast, you are hungry for experiences, and you are answering the call of “More Life?”
This pack trip is pure glory. I hiked the full length in January 2024, and loved every single minute. It was at the same time challenging and restful, exciting and familiar. On this adventure, we’ll be backpacking through rainforests; the trees will part their boughs for us, and we will be allowed inside their wild world. You will hear animals you’ve never heard before, and maybe see creatures you’ve only read about in books. Air that seems alive with sound and scent and color will light up your lungs. You legs will feel fully awake, streaked with mud, and you will feel your heart gallop in your chest.
The trail is an excellent option for seasoned backpackers, but due to the nature of my backpacking ethic (we do not hike in a line or in a group: my goal is to invigorate your independence and solitude when backpacking (though we will connect occasionally on each day’s hike to eat lunch ), some backpacking experience is an absolute must.
A note about this adventure: You will not stay dry or clean. You must not fear dogs, spiders, monkeys, or snakes.
You must be able to hike 15 miles a day, on your own.
Due to time, we are leapfrogging over the trail: instead of hiking the full 280 km continual distance, we will use some transportation to take us from section to section. Know that if you indeed fall in love, every step of the Trail is a wonder, and is worthy of a full expedition. This is a “no skip” trail, but this time, we will just get beautiful bites rather than the full meal.
Also, due to time, you will note that I’ve mentioned “Seven Day Beasts” and “Nine Day Beasts”; if you must leave early, you are a Seven Day Beast and the total rate for your trip will be different than the Nine Day Beasts.
Another note on this adventure: one of the goals of the Camino is to provide an economic artery to the communities and families in inland Costa Rica, so every night, we will be residing in homestays or rainforest lodges along the trail. There will be no camping, so no camping gear is needed to bring along, freeing you up with a much lighter pack and less arduous days.
Another note: having a grasp of Spanish is a bonus.
You must be able to hike 15 miles a day, on your own.
Another note: my photos here are a reflection of my experience, but they may not be yours. NATURE OWES NO ONE SUNNY DAYS. When enterring the heart of the wild, it is wise to leave your expectations at home.
Another note: tap water is safe to drink in Costa Rica. But because it is so fun and meaningful to drink from a stream or river, I recommend a water filter so that you don’t have to carry so much water on the long sections.
Recommended resources
The Mar a Mar Organization has a comprehensive and beautiful website. They are extraordinarily professional and responsive, and are eager for hikers to succeed on their trail.
The trail guide written by Evan Brashiers was a good resource for me when I was planning locations to stay overnight. However, as a seasoned backpacker, I didn’t need his recommendations of hiking gear, hiking techniques, and trail navigation. If this would give you added peace of mind, certainly get it. You might find that you don’t need it as all our homestays are already planned. Nevertheless, it is linked below.
THE MOST VITAL RESOURCE, HOWEVER, is the FarOut Navigation App. This is a must. It not only provides GPS navigation, but helpful catalogue of water sources and resupply locations.
you must be able to hike 15 miles a day.
the glorious days
Day One SAN JOSE:
Land in San Jose, Costa Rica, the capitol and largest city. Costa Rica is within our CST time zone, so there is no need to worry about jet lag. Meet at the beautiful hostel “Socialtel San Jose”, and prepare for the adventure the next day. This means shopping for breakfast and lunch for the next two days at a grocery store. There are no shops to buy food on our first two days of hiking, and very few rivers to drink from, so ensuring you have enough water is as important as food.
Night One: sleep in the communal bunk rooms at Socialtel San Jose.
miles hiked: ZERO (0)
Day Two: CIMARRONES to LAS BRISAS
take the earliest bus to Siquerres, the largest town closest to where we’ll begin the Camino. In Siquerres, we’ll hire a taxi the eleven miles to Cimarrones, where we’ll begin. From Cimarrones, hike 9 miles of rainforest and farmland to Las Brisas, where we will stay the night.
Night Two: stay at Barbilla Rainforest Lodge (a working farm) where dinner is included and cooked by the glorious Marina.
miles hiked: NINE (9)
Day Three: LAS BRISAS to TRES EQUIS:
hold onto your butts for a true adventure. We will be hiking through a protected indigenous rainforest, on Nairi land, and so will hire an indigenous guide to take us through the challenging trail.
This trail is PURE JOY, but it is muddy and rugged. We have no hope of remaining clean or dry! There are many unapologetic uphills where you will use a tree’s roots as stairs, and you will probably slip and fall in the mud on a downhill. There are rivers to wade across, and you will even pull yourself across a mighty river in an iron cage with a pulley. It is a wild, wild, wild day, with adventures you’ll hopefully delight in forever. This is walking right into the churning belly of the earth, and laughing all the way.
There are no shops or places to buy food along this trail.
After the last river crossing, we leave the rainforest and walk on a road through a bull farm!
Night Three: stay at Finca Tres Equis, a glorious farm with cabins, in the town of Tres Equis. There are hills to perch upon, horses to try petting, and a perfect lookout for a wild sunset over a sometimes-hidden volcano. The downtown is but .2 miles away, an easy walk downhill, where there are bars, and a grocery store for resupplying.
miles hiked: FIFTEEN (15)
Day Four: TRES EQUIS to PEJIBAYE:
This is a day we will skip a section and allow our glorious feet and legs to rest! We will hire a car to take us from Tres Equis to the town of Pejibaye, where nearby there is a happy river that is just perfect for soaking tired feet. Pejibaye features some restaurants and a pretty robust market where you can resupply as you need.
Night Four: stay in the town of Pejibaye. Location TBD! (When I stayed in Pejibaye, I camped in a woman’s backyard!) Resupply your food in town, as there are limited places to shop for food the next day. Before hiking out the next day, ensure you have plenty of water.
miles hiked: no trail miles, though it is a lovely idea to walk the maybe mile to the river
Day Five: PEJIBAYE to RIO MACHO
This will be another day of challenging but rewarding hiking. We will again be climbing into the heart of the rainforest, and there are many uphills that tire the body but thrill the spirit. Listen for howler monkeys arguing, blue morpho butterflies lilting on the breeze, and toucans roosting in the trees above you.
Night Five: stay at Rio Macho Lodge, a fine hotel where we will eat dinner and enjoy breakfast the next morning.
miles hiked: FIFTEEN (15)
Day Six: RIO MACHO to PALO VERDE
You have earned another zero day! We will hire a car to take us to Palo Verde, a mountain community where the most wonderful pair of women are waiting for us at “Orchid House” . Laura is an award winning dancer, and has a sprawling home at which to enjoy and relax. Her mother Theresita is a pure delight, and you will leave the next day feeling like family.
Night Six: stay at Orchid House, where dinner and breakfast are included and Laura will teach us how to salsa like hot, juicy babes.
miles hiked: 0 miles
left to right, Theresita, me, and Laura!
Day Seven: PALO VERDE to CABO LUNA
Today, after breakfast, Laura will transport those of you who need to leave to San Jose.
Those of us who remain to hike on will enjoy another beautiful but challenging day up to the highest point on the Camino de Costa Rica. Today the hike is through more cultivated farm land, and because we are now on the “Pacific Side” of the Camino, you will notice a change in the vegetation.
Night Seven: stay at the most unexpected home I’ve ever encountered. When I walked in, I thought a treasure chest had been dropped by giants. Called “Cabo Luna”, it is a home owned by the worldly and handsome Carlos. It’s like a museum of antiques and talismans from a life lived richlly.
Dinner will be provided, cooked by Carlos himself, and we will eat outside, listening to the stream that runs along the belly of his land, and sleep in what seems like a treehouse. He has three dogs, Orca, Arco, and Betsy, and Betsy will probably charm your entire soul.
miles hiked: SIXTEEN (16)
Day Eight: SAN PABLO LEON CORTES to ESQUIPULAS
Hike the mile or so to the town of San Pablo Leon Cortes. Catch a bus to the city of Quepos, the end of the Camino. From Quepos, we will bus to Esquipulas Rainforest Lodge, a glorious respite on the edge of a rainforest with the most mesmerizing bird watching I’ve ever experienced.
Night Eight: sleep in your own “tee pee” at Esquipulas Rainforest Lodge.
miles hiked: FIVE (5)
Day Nine: ESQUIPULAS to QUEPOS to SAN JOSE
Today, catch a shuttle from Esquipulas Rainforest Lodge to Quepos. From Quepos, catch a bus to San Jose.
I recommend not scheduling a flight out on this day. Traffic can be absolutely crazy in Costa Rica (as many highways are only one lane) and feeling rushed or crunched for time is a terrible feeling.
Night Nine: stay again at Socialtel San Jose.
miles hiked: zero
total miles hiked: sixty (60)
TOTAL VALUE OF THE ADVENTURE
::For the Seven Day Beasts::
What Is Included…
-lodging in San Jose, Las Brisas, Tres Equis, Pejibaye, Rio Macho, Palo Verde
-meals provided in Las Brisas, Rio Macho, and Palo Verde
-salsa lesson with the spicy Laura
-bus fare from San Jose
-taxi fare from Siquerres
-the indigenous guide through Nairi Rainforest
-entrance fee into indigenous section
-transportation from Palo Verde to San Jose
--post-adventure commemorative t shirt
-that Flock of Beasts grit and glory
What is NOT Included
-plane fare to San Jose
- resupply food, drinks, and snacks
-the optional packed lunch at Las Brisas
- dinner in San Jose, Tres Equis, and Pejibaye
-the FarOut app
-the Camino de Costa Rica hiking guide (optional)
-gratuity for our indigenous guide/drivers
TOTAL VALUE: 1675.oo
TOTAL VALUE OF THE ADVENTURE
::For the NINE Day Beasts::
What Is Included…
-lodging in San Jose, Las Brisas, Tres Equis, Pejibaye, Rio Macho, Palo Verde, Cabo Luna, and Esquipulas
-dinner and some breakfasts provided in Las Brisas, Rio Macho, Palo Verde, Cabo Luna, and Esquipulas
-bus fare from San Jose
-taxi fare from Siquerres
-salsa lesson with the spicy Laura
-the indigenous guide through Sections 3 and 4
-entrance fee into indigenous section
-transportation to Esquipulas Rainforest Lodge
-bus fare from Quepos
-the last night at Socialtel San Jose
-post-adventure commemorative t shirt
-that Flock of Beasts grit and glory
What is NOT Included
-plane fare to San Jose
- resupply food, drinks, and snacks
-the optional packed lunch at Las Brisas
- dinner in San Jose, Tres Equis, and Pejibaye
- breakfast at Tres Equis, Pejibaye, Cabo Luna, and Esquipulas
-the FarOut app
-the Camino de Costa Rica hiking guide
-gratuity to our indigenous guide/drivers
Total Value: 1895.00
$500 down payment required immediately to secure your spot.
Next payment due May 2025 (day is up to you: I will reach out to you specifically)
Next payment due September 2025
Paid in full by early November
REFUNDS ONLY AVAILABLE TILL MAY: understand that filling trips is often difficult, even amazing ones like this. Thank you for your empathy for a small business owner.
ONLY 4-5 SPOTS AVAILABLE IN THE FLOCK
More information to follow: about a packing list (you need less than you think), training suggestions (it’s a wise idea to ensure you’re in shape before we go), and overall cheering and cartwheeling.
